In using this unregulated commercial phrase, the vintner is underlining the fact that this wine comes from vines at least 35 to 40 years old. The vieille vignes – old vines – produce fewer bunches, but offer a better concentration in the grape. To answer the question posed in the heading: perhaps so.
Clos Lapeyre Jurançon Vitatge Vielh 2019
1) 11629761 | $30.25
The “Vitatge Vielh” – old fruit tree – is a dry Jurançon wine made from large and small manseng and coubu grape varieties from vines 48 to 101 years old: an unambiguous concentration.
The deep amber-yellow colour sets the tone. The nose charms with its notes of dried apricot and conserved lemon followed by a solidly textured mouth with flavours of dried fruits and grilled almonds… pairing well with a Moroccan chicken tajine.
Anita Kuhnel Moulin-à-Vent Reine de Nuit 2022
2) 13212563 | $36.50
Three o’clock in the morning, armed with headlamps, Anita Kuhnel and her team harvest in the dark in a place called “Aux Caves” from 40-year-old vines in the Moulin à Vent (Beaujolais) appellation. The goal is to capture the greatest freshness of the gamay… and you can taste it.This cherry-red wine is nicely crisp and aromatically powerful. The mouth, of red and black fruits, tasting slightly of pepper and licorice, work with a mineral saltiness and smooth tannins. This is a sensual – and in all, consensual – wine.
This cherry-red wine is nicely crisp and aromatically powerful. The mouth, of red and black fruits, tasting slightly of pepper and licorice, work with a mineral saltiness and smooth tannins. This is a sensual – and in all, consensual – wine.
La Cave d’Irouléguy Gabe 2021
3) 15312411 | $29.60
With a tiny acreage and population (369 residents), Irouléguy is the only appellation in the French Basque country. In the Basque language, the Bordelesa Beltza (black Bordelais) – better known under the name tannat – tastes like a dominant red grape variety followed by cabernet franc.
The “Gabe” of the cooperative Cave d’Irouléguy – made 50/50 from this assemblage – surprises with a fruity, slightly gamy nose. A point in common of non-sulphated wines: a slightly effervescent quality detectable in the mouth which disappears fairly quickly. Flavourful, juicy and stimulating, it is supported by good, soft tannins. Drinking this immediately is suggested, true, but at this price I put down a few bottles for two to three years. A calculated risk!
